According to the internet there are roughly 8,200 pizzerias in Naples, Italy. Also known as the pizza capital of the World; Naples offers a variety of Neapolitan pizzas. If you are already questioning your knowledge of pizza, then hang on tight.
Naples History of Pizza
Technically, pizza originated around 997 but was not the pizza you expect today. It was more basic with uses of garlic, cheeses, olive oil and herbs. The bread was folded over and eaten and would be more like a modern day flatbread. The true origins are believed to be in the Mediterranean which could be anywhere such as Greece, Egypt, Morocco and of course Italy.
It wasn't until Royals insisted to have this delicacy served to them and their courts that it became popular amongst the wealthy or upper class. Think back to the age of King Ferdinand I. This was even before the arrival of tomatoes to Italy and before the first "marinara" pizza was born.
Tomatoes originated in South America near the Andes mountains. It was the South American Trade that eventually brought them to Italy. Believed to be either Columbus or Cortez that brought the "fruit" to Europe first. It was also thought to be poisonous in England as tomatoes are a part of the nightshade family. It's popularity in Spain began the widespread acceptance throughout much of Europe and into the North Americas.
Since the plant thrived in the Mediterranean environment, Italy became a primary source for harvesting and in 1889 the origin story of the first pizza margherita was born. Named after Queen Margherita, the pizza included: tomatoes, cheese, olive oil and basil, which also represented the colors of the Italian flag.
Pizza remained a quiet food in the area of Naples and Italy for decades until the migration of Italian immigrants to the Eastern coast of the United States. Around the 1940's many Italians were moving into states of New York, Connecticut, New Jersey and parts of Massachusetts.
Today you can find a variety of pizzas in Naples and beyond but Naples still holds the classic Napoletana pizza crown and you can try the traditional pizza marghertia at any of the 8,200 pizzerias in town.
Which Pizzas to Try
Though many things have changed since 1889, the classic margherita remains the same with its simple ingredients. You can also find an assortment of Napoletana pizzas around the city; as times changed so has the pizza.
While cruising the streets of Naples, you may find some pizzas that you aren't very familiar with. Of course you should try the Margherita, but you should also try Montanara, Conotto, Viennese, Fritta, Carrettiera, Calzone and Marinara.
Each offers a new experience to this age old formulation of dough. You'll find that Montanara and Fritta pizzas are fried but do not discredit them due to this cooking method as both are prepared very specially to remain light and airy and absolutely calorie free (not really).
On the other end of the spectrum you can enjoy something more similar to a Margherita by trying a Conotto or Marinara. These options will offer identical toppings but with slight variations. A conotto will offer a much larger and airier crust than the traditional Margherita while a Marinara will be a bit more flavorful with the addition of garlic and herbs and without the cheese. Again, none of these should be discredited as they are all birthed here in Naples.
Lastly, trying something off-kilter such as a Viennese or Carrettiera will strike a new found appreciation for flavors and texture. You can learn more about each of these style on Taste Atlas. Give a few items a try at any of the 8,200 places across the city.
Need some recommendations? Check out my friend Scott's highly recommended places in Naples here
What to Look For
While in Naples, there will be plenty of vendors along the streets to choose from so how will you know which one is better than the next? There are few key indicators that will let you know if this is a tourist spot or a local's favorite.
The most important is to ask a local what their favorite place in town is. You will likely find that it's not on a corner and will likely be somewhere across town. Many taxi drivers have high opinions of where to eat. Out of 15 taxi rides, 12 stated to try 50 Kalo and avoid Da Michele.
You'll also want to observe if the place has a line of people in front of it, but also what kind of people. Are they local or are they tourist? Additionally, watch as the pizzas are being dished out. If someone ordered a pizza portafoglio and it has lots toppings you are likely in the wrong place.
Based solely on appearances, you won't be able to distinguish a good from a bad pizza as they all tend to look similar. To answer your question, YES, there are bad pizzas in Naples! Looking at the integrity of the pizza(s) will help you determine a decent, good or even great pizza. Here are a few key things to look for:
-leopard spotting on the crust
-caramel or lightly caramel coloration on the crust
-how large or small the crust is (depending on the style-Conotto will be very prominent)
-overly watery interior
-lay out of cheese (should be chunks or thick "hand pulled" shredded chunks not grated or shredded cheese)
-use of tomatoes (no chunks or slices)
-how oily it is or isn't (opt for less oily especially with Fritta, Montanara and Fried foods served in paper to-go servings)
How is it so Cheap
Most places around the world do not offer pizzas this cheap; so why and how is it so cheap here?
Pizzas typically range from 1-3 Euro in many places across the city of Naples, while others may cost 10-20 Euro (depending where you eat). Not only are many wheat mills located in town, so are tomato and mozzarella farms. Olive oil is harvested in nearby towns and salt collected from the ocean just feet away. This means no need for importing or use of vendors for many of the items.
Some pizzerias operate by purchasing straight from the farmers or harvest their own items outside of town driving costs down to provide an inexpensive product. Other pizzerias source ingredients in a more strategic manor, looking for the "best" ingredients and manipulating them to create pizza master pieces.
If you're looking to have an out of this world pizza experience and don't mind spending a little extra on pizza, you may want to consider taking a small day trip outside of Naples to visit Pepe in Grani. Pepe is a World renown pizzaiolo who took to the hills after being "shunned" by the locals for wanting to make pizza more artistic. Catch Pepe's story on Netflix's Chefs Table and if you do decide to trek out there, be sure to book well in advance.
Should you find yourself booking a trip to the pizza Mecca, ensure you leave room for other items as well that are true Neapolitan delights. Enjoy immersing yourself in the variety of pizzas as well trying a few different ones to really understand that not all pizzas are created equal.
Additional information provided by Italy Magazine, Taste Atlas